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Apr 02, 2025

How to Sharpen a Pocket Knife - Pocket Knife Sharpening Guide

Perfect this practice for the most efficient and safe use. Gear-obsessed editors choose every product we review. We may earn commission if you buy from a link. Why Trust Us? There are plenty of pocket

Perfect this practice for the most efficient and safe use.

Gear-obsessed editors choose every product we review. We may earn commission if you buy from a link. Why Trust Us?

There are plenty of pocket knife enthusiasts in the world, but not nearly as many knife sharpening enthusiasts. This means many knife owners are walking around with dull pocket knives, and they’re not entirely sure how, why, or when to fix the issue.

It’s understandable. Sharpening knives might seem like an esoteric domain reserved for samurai and bladesmiths, requiring years of study, special equipment, and time none of us have to learn new skills. Luckily, getting a blade back to sharp is accessible to anyone who is willing to get some basic tools and put in a bit of time and effort. Even better, once you master this skill, it is one you can use not only on your pocket knife, but also kitchen blades and any other knives you use regularly.

You’ll need the right tools for sharpening, but even the most advanced consumer-oriented sharpening tools won’t make too big a dent in your budget—likely less money than you would spend on a pocket knife itself. If it’s time that is your limitation, I have highlighted methods and tools that minimize sharpening skill.

According to David Bäckström CEO/Founder of U.K.-based Casstrom Knives, sharpening a pocket knife is like any skill. “When you know what you are doing, it's easy,” he says. “Invest time to practice sharpening regardless of the system you use, and it will become second nature.”

While there are a variety of sharpeners on the market ranging from $20 to $1,000, my roundup focuses on models that cost less than $300, as you don’t need to spend a lot to get started, and if you’re in the market for a $,1000 knife sharpener, you probably already know which one you need. Beginners don’t have to spend more than $150 unless that is their desire, but first check the specific models for beginners that I have recommended below that are better for starting out.

A final thought: There are machines that cost several hundred dollars which do an admirable job. The reason to go with a pricier device is if you’ve experimented with sharpening enough to know what works and what doesn’t for you. These mid-range models usually are either electric, sturdy benchtop models, or both, and certain types of people will prefer automatic sharpeners or need precise guides (more on that below).

Benchtop Tools

These are generally the most precise, controlled sharpening systems allowing more adjustability to accommodate different angles. While the precision combined with a higher price and moderate setup complexity make them a great option for intermediate and advanced sharpeners, these are also ideal for beginners because they minimize openings for user error in sharpening strokes.

With simpler sharpening tools, it’s easier for beginners to subtly change the knife angle and pressure, which can lead to inconsistent results and frustration. Using a fixed angle system helps you develop a sense for the proper angle that you can use when sharpening without a guide down the line, if desired. On the flip side, properly setting up a benchtop sharpener can seem complex and keeps some beginners from ever getting started.

The Wicked Edge Precision Knife Sharpener system is a great higher-end model, but beginners on a budget will be just fine with the user-friendly Work Sharp Precision Adjust system.

Field Sharpeners

These sharpeners balance easy setup and use with precision. I use field sharpeners more than any other type of sharpener simply because I spend a lot of time outdoors hunting, fishing, and camping, and it’s just not practical to take other types of sharpeners too far from home. These are mostly simple devices with a few different sharpening grit options, but the best ones have some kind of guide to maintain the proper angle.

If you don’t need a sharpener in the field, you should look at a more stable benchtop sharpener, but for quick tune-ups while camping or hunting, I like a compact, lightweight field sharpener that is small enough to carry in your pocket or toss in a backpack. If you get comfortable enough with one, it can serve to sharpen at home as well.

Power Sharpeners

These powered, usually belt-driven benchtops options are great for the impatient as well as for really dull or damaged knives. They also usually have fixed angles which make it easier to get consistent results. Belt-driven systems are also suited for recurve blades and other odd shapes as the belt conforms to the knife’s edge.

The downside is that they can remove a lot of material quickly when paired with coarser grits, especially when run at high speeds. There’s also a decent learning curve to master to get consistently sharp blades so don’t fall into the trap of assuming an automated option is automatically better. Sharpening by hand can feel tedious at first, but it lets you learn at a more relaxed pace.

Sharpening Stones

Whetstone kits are simple and affordable, and ideal for larger kitchen knives. Experienced sharpeners can freehand on these stones, which, by the way, need to be soaked in water before use. The kits usually come with a clip-on angle guide that’s a must for learning the skill.

I wouldn’t recommend these for pocketknives nor for beginners specifically because they’re not built for smaller knives and there’s a bit too much room for improvisation. Once you’ve achieved some decent edges and feel comfortable, however, using stones can be a sort of zen sharpening experience and they’re great if you have a lot of larger kitchen knives.

Pull-Through Sharpeners

In a typical kitchen drawer, you’ll find a pull-through sharpener. This is a blunt instrument that gets the job done without requiring much skill or knowledge, but the drawback is that it also removes a ton of material. Eventually, this type of sharpener will ruin your pocketknife if used regularly. I don’t recommend this option unless you need a sharp blade and don’t have other tools at your disposal.

We’re focused here on restoring the most common knife around—the folding pocket knife—but the general principles are applicable to most household and kitchen knives, too. In fact, you may want to practice on some cheaper knives you have laying around kitchen drawers before moving on to your favorite $300 folder.

Kyle Owens, Community Marketing Manager for Work Sharp, shares that sharpening shouldn’t be daunting. “Sharpening is actually cheap and easy to get into. Most people think it’s more complicated than it is and get scared off by the intimidation of doing it. Start with cheap knives with soft steel,” he advises.

If you don’t have a sacrificial knife for practicing, check Walmart and outdoor superstores. They sell folders for a few bucks that have soft steels that are easy to sharpen compared to high-end hard metals. Similarly, cheap kitchen paring knives are widely available and use softer steels that are good for beginners.

This Kershaw Filter pocket knife is actually a great budget folder for about $25 that uses a low-carbon steel that’s not as hard and thus not as hard to sharpen. It’s also a somewhat larger pocket knife which can be easier for beginners to sharpen than tiny folders.

You may already have a sharpening device in your home so you can start there. If you’re interested in sharpening at home but don’t want to invest a ton of money, I’d begin with a simple combination manual sharpening device with an angle guide such as the compact Work Sharp Benchstone model.

Take five minutes to read through the manual of whatever system you’re using. If you’ve struggled to get consistently sharp blades in previous attempts, consider a fixed-angle benchtop system such as the models recommended below.

Whatever blade you’re about to sharpen, take a few moments to inspect the blade. Carefully run your finger along the edge to feel for burrs, chips, and other damage. If the blade is in good shape and feels sharp, you can try slicing a piece of paper with it, and if the blade cuts through paper easily, it may not even need sharpening. If it’s obviously dull, you’ll want to start with a coarser stone such as 220 grit, but if it’s just in need of a tune-up, you can start with finer stones.

Most pocket knives have a 20-degree angle on both sides. (Some knives only have an angle on one side, but this is less common.) As a result, many simpler sharpeners have permanent guides at 20 degrees. Aiming for a more shallow angle such as 15 degrees can be tempting if you’re drawn to a surgically sharp pocket knife, but Work Sharp’s Owens says to “sharpen everything at 20 degrees. Your average person will not notice a difference between 20 and 15 degrees. Then as you get better you’ll naturally find the angle that works best for you.”

If you do it right, a well-sharpened 20-degree edge angle will be just as satisfying and has the benefit of being less likely to incur chips and nicks in the edge than shallower grinds.

“It is easiest to identify the angle from the factory and stick to it,” says Casstrom. “We would say that people often increase the sharpening angle too much, trying to quickly feel a sharp edge forming. Resist the urge.” To match the factory edge on your knife, check the manufacturer’s website to confirm the original edge angle.

Knife sellers such as Blade HQ have specifications for a wide range of pocket knives as well. Even if you can’t confirm the original edge angle, there’s no problem with changing it, so it’s fine to use 20 degrees for most pocket knives.

This is where the magic happens. Again, start with a cheaper, softer steel if you can. If you’re dealing with a dull knife, build a new edge by starting with a coarser stone until you’ve built up a burr that you can see and feel. “We like to say ‘No burr no sharp’,” says Owens. “Just sharpen one side of that knife until you get a burr. Count passes so you can repeat on the other side.”

Once you’ve got a consistent burr and new edge formed, move on to finer grits. For simplicity, a medium and fine grit are enough and you can finish by honing on ceramic if your sharpener has it.

Keep practicing until you get consistent results. If you’re struggling and feel like your edges aren’t up to snuff, there is more help than ever online. Work Sharp’s YouTube channel has dozens of tool-specific tutorial videos that let you see what you might be doing wrong.

It’s easier to stay in practice if you sharpen regularly. Simply honing on a ceramic is often enough to keep your blade sharp, letting you perform the tedious, more extensive sharpenings only when damage to the edge requires them.

This affordable, compact countertop sharpener gives beginners everything they need to get started and avoids the adjustability and options that can overwhelm first-timers. A medium 320-grit diamond stone restores dull and damaged edges, while the 600-grit stone sharpens, and the ceramic plate hones. The size, which makes it easy to store, is just right for pocket knives.

This whetstone kit is as basic and affordable as it gets while still giving you most of the tools you need to sharpen almost any knife. While it’ll work fine for pocket knives, it’s really built for larger chef’s knives and thus, is a reliable choice if you’re sharpening kitchen blades as well as pocket knives. The clip-on plastic angle guide is a must for beginners, but there are better options if you’ve struggled with consistency in the past.

This compact pocket sharpener is all you need to maintain a sharp pocket knife when fishing, hunting, or camping. The sub-five-ounce sharpener pairs an all-around 400-grit diamond plate with a ceramic honing plate and lets you refresh your edge quickly without having to cart around a bulky system in your pack. It’s also a great budget option for sharpening at home, though the lack of a coarser stone limits its ability to restore badly damaged edges.

The cost of this benchtop system is a bit higher than that of the other sharpeners recommended here, but this is the best type of sharpener if you’ve struggled with consistency in the past. Unlike most other sharpeners, the Precision Adjust Sharpener holds a consistent angle through the use of clamps and minimizes user error. Free-hand sharpeners require less setup, but introduce opportunities to subtly get the knife off-angle.

Do I need a pocketknife-specific sharpener?

No. Most pocketknives have relatively simple blade shapes that can be sharpened on almost any sharpening system. If you have a recurve blade or other non-traditional blade shape, a belt-driven sharpener may be a better choice as the belt can conform to almost any shape. Still, for learning sharpening basics, it’s best to start with a basic knife shape and a softer steel, so consider buying a cheap paring knife or pocketknife for practice.

Do modern super steel pocket knives require special sharpening techniques?

The sharpening techniques and processes stay the same, but you'll need patience and skill. Higher-end pocket knives like those from Benchmade tend to use harder steels that are more challenging to sharpen because it takes more passes to achieve a sharp edge.

As mentioned above, it can be better for learning the basics of sharpening if you start with a cheaper blade with softer steel so you can see results faster. Also note: Benchmade in particular has a lifetime sharpening service if you’re not yet comfortable enough to try sharpening your expensive pocketknife yourself.

I’ve tried sharpening and my edge still isn’t sharp. Do I need to try a sharper edge angle?

While it can be tempting to start messing around with edge angles, most experts recommend starting with a standard 20-degree angle to learn sharpening. If you’ve tried sharpening a blade and still feel it’s not sharp enough, the culprit is more likely your technique than the angle of the edge.

If you’ve sharpened a knife and it doesn’t easily slice through a piece of paper, start over and work on building a new edge using a coarser plate or belt first to reestablish the edge until you have a defined burr from removing steel. Don’t rush the process and make more passes than you did in previous attempts.

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